ndonesia’s fashion scene is mourning the loss of designer Barli Asmara, a fashion week staple known for his hyper-feminine designs.
Barli passed away at the age of 42 on Thursday afternoon in Bali, where he had resided since moving from the capital.
His management team stated in a YouTube video that the designer had been battling a stomach illness that resulted in two weeks of hospitalization, reportedly due to being overworked. However, his cause of death has yet to be announced.
Barli started his career as an assistant at a batik house, before forging his own path by starting his namesake label in 2002.
He quickly made a name for himself on the Indonesian fashion scene, cementing his status in 2008 when Dewi magazine named him one of the best designers in the nation.
Barli was also featured in the Dewi Fashion Knights show at Jakarta Fashion Week (JFW) – typically the last show to close the weeklong event – twice, with his collections Pattern Magic (2008) and Royal Smock (2009).
Other accolades he received over the years include the AMICA Young Talented Designer Award, ELLE Designer of The Year, The Best 20 Designer for High End Masterpiece, and Kartika Magazine Best Designer of The Year.
After becoming a member of the Indonesian Fashion Designer Council (IPMI) in 2011, Barli went on to enter JFW’s Indonesia Fashion Forward incubation program, becoming one of the first designers to graduate from the one-year training program.
In 2013, he also created a number of fashion lines to further entrench his presence, including B Homme for menswear, and B by Barli Asmara for Muslim women.
Still, it was Barli’s delicate and intricate designs that drew the crowds, and it certainly showed in his penchant for details, with each design element coexisting in harmony.
Barli’s last collection before his passing was Unchained, launched on Aug. 7. The collection’s highlights include the abundance of lace, worked into opulent ruffles punctuated by voluminous sleeves and delicate bows.
Inspired by those unafraid to express themselves, Unchained brings a more regal approach to Barli’s ready-to-wear offerings, perhaps signifying strength in femininity.
Earlier in July, Barli also donated around 30 articles of clothing from his label to Dompet Dhuafa charity organization. The clothes were to be auctioned, with 100 percent of the proceeds going to benefit programs tackling the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic.
After Barli’s passing made the news, many of his peers expressed their sorrow and condolences.
Accessories designer Rinaldy A. Yunardi, who confirmed the news of his passing, was himself shocked, having last seen Barli at a fashion event at the end of last year.
“I can’t say too much because I’m really sad, I don’t know what else to say. It’s just a feeling of loss, huge loss,” he said as quoted by kompas.com. Designer Tities Sapoetra thanked Barli for his memories and knowledge shared in an Instagram Story post.
“You were one of my teachers. Before going into the industry, we had many discussions together. You never get bored of answering my questions. Will be missing you, kak," Tities wrote on his account @titiessapoetra.
Veteran designer Anne Avantie was shocked to hear the news, noting that she hasn’t had the chance to meet with Barli since the beginning of the pandemic.
Anne remembered Barli as someone filled with kindness and brilliant ideas.
“He was someone generous with his ideas and was always keen on getting together with many people. But he has finished his life’s journey, from the beginning to the very end. Farewell, my friend,” she said. (ste)
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