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Bhutan: on the roof of the world, at the foot of Himalayas
A paradise in the heart of Himalayas, Bhutan is a land of clean air, fresh wind, picturesque mountains, lush green landscapes and a thousand rivers plunging through mountain passes, bringing natural mineral water across the valleys. Bridges here are made of wood and iron chains and straddle the rivers and roads wind across rock faces and through dense forests of giant rhododendrons, wild orchids, exotic birds and unusual animals.
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Costumed monk performs traditional dance in Tsechu festival at Thimphu, Bhutan. (Shutterstock/theskaman306)
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paradise in the heart of Himalayas, Bhutan is a land of clean air, fresh wind, picturesque mountains, lush green landscapes and a thousand rivers plunging through mountain passes, bringing natural mineral water across the valleys. Bridges here are made of wood and iron chains and straddle the rivers and roads wind across rock faces and through dense forests of giant rhododendrons, wild orchids, exotic birds and unusual animals.
Our voyage to Bhutan began long before reaching the land; as soon as we left Kathmandu for our final leg of the journey. Though a little less than an hour’s journey, it is an hour that gets registered forever in one’s mind.
As the Druk Air aircraft rose toward the foothills of the Himalayas along with the mountain-rise, we were struck with wonder by the breathtaking sight of the mountain peaks as the plane flew past the summit of Everest. The mythical dreamlike kingdom came into view with the charming valley of Paro. A sign read “Tashidelek [welcome] to Bhutan” at the small airport in Paro; welcoming us to DrukYel, the land of the Thunder Dragon.
Immediately on landing at the country’s only airport, a glance in any direction provided an awe-inspiring view at a very close range of the Himalayan mountains. At an altitude of 2.4 kilometers, we were on top of the world at the foot of the Himalayas.
Bhutan is a land-locked country surrounded by the Himalayan mountains in the north and west. The rugged east borders the Indian province of Arunachal Pradesh while the high Himalayas in the northern steppes separate the kingdom from Tibet.
As we came out of the small airport, we were met with the colorful sight of men dressed in ghos (a knee-length robe worn tied around the waist by a slim belt) and women wearing kiras. The small population of less than a million is made up primarily of indigenous Bhutanese. Some naturalized citizens come from Tibet, India and Nepal. Hill tribes like those from Merek and Sakteng in the east and Laya in the north live at the higher reaches of the kingdom and in some isolated valleys have had no contact with Western civilization and still trade in bartered goods.
After a 15-minute drive from the airport, we arrived at Olathang Hotel; a cottage built of wood with spacious rooms and heaters.
Paro valley is one of the most populated areas of Bhutan. Because of its proximity to the airport, there are hotels and tourist facilities close to the airstrip.
The town of Paro is small and most inhabitants live in the beautiful valley that surrounds the town. In Paro, a walk in the village or a short trek through the jungle is a pleasant change for visitors from cities who are used to living at a hectic pace. A trip to Chilela, the mountain that divides the two valleys of Western Bhutan-Ha and Paro, is a treat for the senses with its cool fresh air and a magnificent view of the beautiful Himalayan ranges.
Bhutan is an independent kingdom. Its isolation has helped it repel colonists and its geography has enabled it to remain free from the whims of its giant neighbors. The Bhutanese pride themselves for never having been colonized and to have safeguarded their traditional way of life in all its respects. Though it has existed for more than 1,400 years, it broke its isolation in 1971 to become a member of the United Nations. And it was only in 1982 that an airstrip was completed at Paro. The national airline was born to bring tourism to Bhutan.
Food
You will appreciate Bhutan cuisine if you like hot and spicy food. Almost all Bhutanese meals consist of a generous helping of rice and one or more tshoem (curry) dishes. The rice is boiled or steamed and can be white polished rice (called ja chum) or a unique variety of Bhutanese rice that is pink in color (called eue chum). The pink or red rice is heavier and has a slightly nutty flavor.
Most of the dishes are boiled in water with some oil and other garnishing. The method is simple and the real differences in taste come from the main ingredients like beans or potatoes or exotic delicacies like orchids, fern fronds and canes. These come in dried or fresh forms depending on the season.
Bhutanese like their food hot. Raw chilies are eaten dipped in salt to accompany a dish and an esay can accompany a meal. Theesay resembles the Mexican salsa and serves a similar function as the pickle.
Cheese is another favorite ingredient and emadatshi, a super hot dish comprising chili and cheese, is one of the most popular dishes in Bhutan.
Swiss Bakery in Thimphu is a popular restaurant. Palingpa food at the Swiss Bakery comes in a milder version. The veggie burger is very good. They also have meat burgers. The Bhutanese love meat.
Sightseeing in Paro
The National Museum is housed in an ancient watch tower and has a fine collection of Thangka paintings, textiles, weapons, arts and crafts, stuffed rare birds and animals. Drugyal Dzong is of historical importance because it is from this fort that the Bhutanese successfully fought off a Tibetan invasion.
Taktsang Monastery clings to a sheer 914-meter rock face. The trail from the road to Tiger’s Nest, as it is also called, takes a good walk of about three hours and the walk is worth every minute of it.
The Café at the lookout point provides well-earned tea and snacks. Ponies are also available for those who don’t want to walk. Guru Rimpocheon took his crusade from Tibet to Bhutan over a thousand years ago and is said to have arrived on the back of a tigress and meditated at this monastery.
Many Dzongs (fortresses) and monasteries are found throughout Bhutan and all the buildings and houses have an architectural style unique to the country. People here either walk or share taxis to reach a place. Toyota, Honda and Mitsubishi vans serve as the ideal mode of transportation.
Thimphu is two hour’s drive east from Paro, perhaps the most unusual capital city in the world. This regal town is home to the revered Bhutanese Royal family and to several foreign missions. Tashichho Dzong on the banks of Thimphu River is the main secretariat building housing the throne room of His Majesty, the King of Bhutan. The King is very popular here and lives in a simple house, though his queens live in lofty castles clinging to the sides of the mountains.
The National Assembly Hall is housed in a modern building on the other side of the river. Next to Dzong is Bhutan’s only golf course.
The National Library, located in the heart of Thimphu, has some of the oldest records of Bhutanese history and religion and is worth a look. Thangka, a painting school, is situated next to it. Inside the classroom, we could see the student monks in burgundy robes sitting and learning from a saffron-robed elder. School children, like all Bhutanese, dress in a national costume.
Wandering along the main street in Thimphu, we found traditionally decorated shops selling local handicraft. Shopkeepers here are helpful and oblige even the smallest request. Ngultrum, Bhutan’s currency, is equivalent in value to the Indian rupee. We paid in Indian rupee, as it is widely accepted here, but were surprised to get the change in Ngultrum. Credit cards are not very popular in Bhutan.
Since it was a Saturday, we visited the weekend market. Every Saturday and Sunday, most of Thimphu’s scant population and many valley dwellers congregate on the banks of the river for the weekend market.
The traditional Bhutanese textiles and wooden crafts and even religious Thangka paintings are wonderful. Most of Thimphu’s residents make it a point to come to the market to pick up their weekly stock of vegetables and to exchange the week’s gossip. A wander through the stalls reveals mountains of bright red chilies, brinjals, okra, asparagus and different varieties of rice. Traditional Bhutanese masks and carpets can be found at reasonable prices here.
The national newspaper, Kuensel, is published in Dzongkha, English and Nepali. A growing number of people, especially in the urban areas, speak English. Bhutan’s children are educated in Dzongkha (the national language) and English.
The Bhutanese have deeply held beliefs and follow traditional customs. Spectacular examples of this are the numerous prayer flags erected alongside the roads and buildings throughout the country. Prayer-inscribed multi-colored cloths are tied to poles and erected near the buildings. These tall flags are supposed to carry their messages to the almighty to keep evil out of their land and to safeguard the future generation.
One of Bhutan’s exports is its wide and multifarious collection of stamps. These are best seen in commemorative books inside Thimphu’s central post office. Bhutan has a worldwide reputation for being a philatelist’s delight. Vibrant colors and vivid images typify Bhutanese stamps. A recent addition and popular collector’s item is a series of stamps paying tribute to Walt Disney characters. There are also stamps for the 1994 World Cup and German re-unification. Collections and first-day issues are on sale at the Central Post Office in Thimphu.
Trekking
Trekking in Bhutan is a great joy for walkers of all levels. The Bhutan Tourism Corporation arranges a wide variety of treks, turning hospitality for hikers into an art form. With equipment carried on ponies and by porters, trekkers are able to expend all their energy on getting as much as they possibly can from the walk itself.
All parties are accompanied by a trained guide, a cook, a cooking assistant and at least one horseman. All provisions and most belongings are carried by horses and yaks; trekkers rarely have to carry more than a day pack with camera and extra film.
Our trip to Bhutan was refreshing and the kingdom and its people have cast an unforgettable spell, a luring, addictive potion that makes us want to visit the country again.
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Anand & Madhura Katti (husband & wife team) are award winning travel journalists based in Mumbai, India. They travel across the country and the world, attending many travel trade, hotel industry summits, and conferences. They also have contributed to many Indian newspapers and some overseas publications for 26 years.
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