Saluang woven headdress from Pariaman, West Sumatra. (JP/Dian Kuswandini)

The catwalks have recently seen a revival of traditional costumes in rich colors and patterns, sometimes fused with the latest cuts and details. But as fabulous as they look, one element has been missing: Headdresses.

Often omitted from fashion parades and discussions on cultural heritage, traditional headdresses are like neglected treasures. Even though they can tell stories of centuries-old motifs and philosophies, they have not managed to attract many people’s interest in learning more about them. “A headdress might be one thing that many people never pay attention to, but it’s an important element as a part of the whole of traditional couture,” said Adiati Arifin Siregar, chairwoman of the Indonesian Traditional Textile Society (Himpunan Wastraprema).

For this reason, Wastraprema will gather together headdresses from across the archipelago as part its prestigious textile exhibition Adi Wastra Nusantara – or the Showcase of Traditional Textiles of the Archipelago – which will be held at the Jakarta Convention Center from April 15 to 19.

According to Wastraprema, in modern Indonesia, the tradition of wearing headdresses is diminishing; in some areas, it is even almost forgotten.

“The decision to feature headdresses from across the Indonesian archipelago in the exhibition is an attempt to develop the art of recreating them and to promote the revival of patterns and motifs derived from Indonesia’s rich cultural heritage,” Adiati said.

The traditional headdresses in the exhibition, she added, could inspire Indonesian designers and artisans, along with the use of traditional textiles such as batik, songket (woven cloth), embroidery and ikat celup (tie-dyeing). The expectation, therefore, is that headdresses will form a new stream in fashion.

Wastraprema spokeswoman Mariah Woworuntu said that, by putting headdresses in the limelight, the organization expected to be able to help the general public learn more about the headdresses of certain ethnic groups and their philosophies.

“A headdress is important because it covers the highest part of the body,” Mariah said. “In many ethnic groups in our country, it is believed that the head is the most sacred part of the body – where the soul enters the body.”

Made from a range of materials including beads, fibers, gold, leather and wood, headdresses are significant cultural artifacts that reflect gender, class, political and personal identities, Mariah explained.

“A headdress is more than just a head covering,” she said. “It identifies clans; it’s a symbol of honor, pride and prestige.”

As well as displaying rare traditional headdresses, Adi Wastra Nusantara will also offer members of the public the opportunity to learn about headdresses through a one-day seminar, scheduled for April 16. The seminar, “Various Decorations of Indonesian Headdresses”, will feature local and foreign speakers who will share the untold stories and philosophies contained in the headdress tradition. “We aim to raise people’s awareness to make an effort to preserve them [headdresses], love them and appreciate them,” Adiati said.

This year’s exhibition is the second of its kind held by Wastraprema. Last year, the organization attracted some 40,000 visitors to get a closer look at traditional textiles from across the archipelago. The event, which gathers local and foreign textile designers and producers to promote their work, is also a haven for textile enthusiasts, as demonstrated last year with business transactions totaling around Rp 20 billion (US$1.65 million).  Given this success, Mariah said, the event can be regarded a good starting place “to continue to uphold the image, understanding and appreciation of the art of traditional textiles of Indonesia, so they will be acknowledged, interesting, experienced and conserved for generations to come.” And with the exquisite headdresses on display this year, art enthusiasts should not miss the opportunity to gain a new experience in learning and appreciating another form of cultural heritage.

Adi Wastra Nusantara

Halls A and B

Jakarta Convention Center

Jl. Gatot Subroto, Senayan Central Jakarta

Information:

Himpunan Wastraprema

021-7190130, 7190140

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