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The road less traveled Beuticanar
Climbers walk around Telaga Bodas as they head to Mt
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Climbers walk around Telaga Bodas as they head to Mt. Beuticanar. JP/Tifa Asrianti
Most of you are familiar with Mt. Galunggung, but I believe you will need some more education about Mt. Beuticanar, which is located nearby.
Mt. Galunggung gained notoriety when ashes spewing from the active volcano in 1982 forced an Auckland-bound British Airways jumbo jet to make an emergency landing at Soekarno-Hatta International Airport. The eruption easily comes to mind especially when remembering the recent eruption of Icelandic volcano Eyjafjallajokull, which forced the closure of European airspace.
Galunggung itself is a monstrous and complex series of mountain craters comprised of Telaga Bodas (White Lake) and dry crater Kawah Saat in the north and Galunggung crater in the south. The
highest peak, Mt. Beuticanar (2,240-meter above the sea level), towers in between the three other mountains, protruding over a long ridge of forested peaks.
Last month, The Jakarta Post climbed Mt. Beuticanar with Dan Quinn and members of gunungbagging.com (a website which documents tall mountains in the country), the hiking club Napak Rimba and forest conservation group Opalin.
Riding on a four-wheel drive vehicle from Garut to Wanaraja, we took a turn right where a road sign read “Telaga Bodas 12 km”.
It was a bumpy ride on a steep road that forced the driver to switch to first gear along the way. From this rough dirt trail, we could see the beautiful views of Mt. Guntur, Papandayan and Cikuray in the distance.
The ride ended as we approached the gate to Telaga Bodas. After parking the car, we prepared backpacks and set out on a hike. After a short walk we arrived at Telaga Bodas.
The view of the lake was stunning. The sulfuric gases that plumed from the rocks were an eerie yet beautiful sight. If you take a trek to the right, you will find two hot water pools to bathe in. It was too late for the hot spring so we headed straight for the summit.
The peak itself is only 500-meter higher than Telaga Bodas but the only trail to the summit is climbed only several times a year. It was hard to reach through the vegetation.
But thanks to the machete-wielding Napak Rimba and friends, the trail is now marked by small fluorescent yellow tape and blue string.
Quinn said the expedition was aimed at increasing public awareness about Mt. Beuticanar. “With more and more people using the same trail, it is hoped that the path would be recognizable and passable with no excessive vegetation on it,” he said.
We headed for a small white rocky spot that led to a narrow path enveloped by tall vegetation. After an hour’s hike, we reached a clearing where a sand field and burnt tree stumps adorned the bases of Mt. Telaga Bodas and Mt. Canar. The spot is known as Kawah Saat, a gorgeous area where climbers can take a break and enjoy the sunshine before venturing into the woods once again.
Climber Tandang Permana of Opalin said that although the crater looked harmless, it still emits sulfur gases from time to time. It is advisable for people wanting to make camp there to find shade under trees, he said.
Walking the route to the summit was like going through boot camp. We had to crawl under vegetation and in some spots we have to hang on to vines. There were points where we had to descend into valleys and then start hiking back up again. But the rest of the trail is quite manageable.
Early in the hike, we could find wild begonias. But as you walk into the forest, the vegetation becomes thicker and taller, and in most parts you have to deal with thorny vines. Given the hazards from the vegetation, climbers are advised to wear long-sleeved shirts.
Mt. Beuticanar rarely gets visitors, as climbers traditionally opt for Mt. Galunggung. The trail is barely visible but the good thing is that you won’t find garbage along the way.
In the midst of its dense forest, hiking Mt. Beuticanar is very intimate, just you and the forest. Birds chirp in the distance and snails make their way on the leaves — and that is your only distraction. Views are also limited, with only a couple of spots along the ridge where you can glimpse Kawah Saat and Telaga Bodas.
After four hours of hiking, we reached the summit, a flat grassy plain that can accommodate seven tents at once. Standing on the summit on a bright day, you can see Mt. Canar in the north, Tasikmalaya town to the east and valleys surrounding the summit.
A fellow hiker from Napak Rimba said that even though the eruption in 1982 destroyed most vegetation in the area, the forest regrew in less than 10 years. He said that fish and other animals had also made a comeback in the area — except for the leeches.
Unfortunately, the June weather did not allow us to catch a beautiful sunset. My hopes of enjoying the silvery beams of a rising moon were also dashed as cloud and winds came in during sunset with lightning and thunder upping the ante. Predictably, our night at the summit was cold, and a warm tent and companions are two best things comforts.
I thought that my luck ran out that day after I failed to also catch the sunrise due to thick clouds. But before long, we dismantled our tents and headed down to the valley, which was pretty easy. It took us only three hours to climb down the mountain, as opposed to four on the way up.
The disappointment I felt went away once I dipped in the hot springs of Telaga Bodas.
Tips
• You can travel by private car or public transportation to get to Mt. Beuticanar. From Jakarta, take the toll road to Bandung. After the Cileunyi exit, proceed to Garut and once you are in the city take a left turn to Wanaraja. From Wanaraja, take a right turn and go up the bumpy road to Telaga Bodas. If you go by car, stop here, as the road is difficult to pass. Hitch a ride on trucks owned by local or take an ojek (motorcycle taxi), otherwise you will have to walk for 12 kilometers.
• Beuticanar is a word in the local language for beuti or tuber and canar or vines. As the name implies, the forest is teeming with thorny vines. Protect yourself by wearing long sleeves, long pants, gloves and hats .
• You need to pay Rp 3,000 (33 US cents) per visit per person to enter the area.
• If you have not arranged for local help you can ask for assistance at food stalls near the entrance. You may be able to arrange a guide to the top from the forest conservation group in the area.
• Be sure to check out these websites before deciding on a trip to Mt. Beuticanar :
www.gunungbagging.com
www.nr.or.id
www.organisasi-opalin.blogspot.com
