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Menswear regains its muscle at Paris Fashion Week

Olga Nedbaeva (AFP)
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Paris, France
Mon, June 27, 2022

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Menswear regains its muscle at Paris Fashion Week French designer Hedi Slimane acknowledges the audience at the end of the Celine fashion show during the Menswear Ready-to-wear Spring-Summer 2023 Fashion Week in Paris on June 26, 2022. (AFP/Julien De Rosa )

M

enswear proved to be in reinvigorated form as Paris Fashion Week ended on Sunday, with spectacle, innovation and the return of big-name designers to the catwalk.   

The week concluded with the surprising return of fabled French designer Hedi Slimane, formerly of Dior and Saint Laurent and now with Celine. Two years ago, he had announced he was done with the official fashion calendar.

Slimane became hugely influential as a stylist and photographer for musicians such as David Bowie, Mick Jagger, The Libertines and Daft Punk in the early 2000s.

But he has not presented a live show since February 2020, having dismissed them as "obsolete", preferring to present collections with videos shot in luxurious French locales.

He gave no explanation for his reappearance on the catwalk but returns amid a sense of a renaissance in menswear. Fashionistas mobbed the gates to the Palais de Tokyo in central Paris on Sunday.  

Slimane's new collection harked back to the indie-rock vibes that made his name -- skinny black trousers, even skinnier ties, golden suits and leather jackets, and lots of dark sunglasses. 

'A boom' 

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