T

he year 2011 has seen some interesting events. Indonesia has the most designers compared to other countries in Southeast Asia, but in terms of business continuity, our designers are still in an on-off mode, says fashion stylist and critic Sonny Muchlison.

“It takes extra commitment and professionalism in the industry to get our collections loved by the international market. The question is how to create a collection that meets international preferences,” said Sonny, who also criticized local textile producers.

According to Sonny, textile producers show a lack of contribution to promoting the industry as they tend to export their products instead of collaborating with local designers. “Designers and textile producers overseas have a strong collaboration to create qualified products,” he went on.

Meanwhile, the mushrooming Chinese and Korean items have challenged the local fashion industry.

“People opt for imported articles because they are cheaper and available anywhere. The government should do something about it to protect local producers,” Sonny added.

“You see, malls nowadays have been flooded with foreign labels. If the government does not impose limitations on imported goods, I’m afraid there will be no room for our designers.”

The headliners

This year has been an extraordinary one for young designer Tex Saverio, 27, whose creations are often dubbed as reminders of the late Alexander McQueen’s work.

His name rose to fame when one of his haute couture designs was donned by American songstress Lady Gaga in the May issue of a glossy lifestyle magazine.

A number of other new faces also appeared on the scene. One of the much-talked-about was Ardistia Dwiasri, who brought her very own label called “Ardistia New York” and established her contemporary women’s line in “The Big Apple”.

The alumni of Parsons School of Design, New York, she brings ready-to-wear designs that reflect simplicity, elegance, modernity and versatility.

The 32-year-old designer has gained impressive experiences in fashion, including an internship stint with Diane Von Furstenberg and a freelancer for GAP and Ann Taylor.

Ardistia has returned home to cater for the local market as well as expanding the brand to the Asia Pacific region.

Another name also stealing the attention was Rafi Abdurrahman Ridwan, a 9-year-old boywho, despite a hearing defect, has tried to make his way toward becoming a fashion designer.

At the year’s midpoint, he had his chance to collaborate with renowned designer Barli Asmara to display his collection, which is dominated with candy colors and cheerful motifs.

Aside from designers, the fashion and lifestyle industries of the city have also welcomed the presence of The Goods Department at Plaza Indonesia and Manekineko at Epicentrum.

Both stores are homes to dozens of lifestyle products such as clothing, accessories and more. They also cater for the imaginative creations of local designers, who sometimes find it hard to promote and sell their products, and support local brand development amid the sea of foreign products.

Trend alert

Among those much-loved and most-worn fashion items on the scene this year have been high-waist bottoms, which include pants and skirts.

Jodhpurs, which reigned in 2010, still appeared on runways in the first months of the year before high-waist trousers, which used to be popular at the end of the 1980s, took over and immediately became a popular choice among fashionistas.

The pants sit above the natural waist line, more like baggy pants, but they are high and bulkier in the waist. The most likeable high-waist trousers are the ones that are cropped with a pencil cut at the lower part.

In the accessories section, skinny belts regained their fame, replacing chunky thick belts.

These tiny belts, especially those worn to match dresses, are good choices for women who aim to show off their small waists.

Chunky platform heels are everywhere and are available for those who need some height support, while ballerina pumps are also still on the scene.

In terms of fabrics and motifs, alluring patterns of traditional textiles, like tenun (hand woven cloths) and batik, still attracted many designers to turn the materials into a series of modern pieces for both men and women.

Designers explored and experimented with the rich cultures of every region, from Jambi’s tenun, Bali’s songket cloth and textiles from West Kalimantan’s sambas, to ikat from East Nusa Tenggara (NTT).

Fashion events

Throughout the year, Jakarta celebrated some noted annual fashion festivals that brought together designers,
fashion lovers, textile producers and fashion editors.

The Jakarta Fashion and Food Festival (JFFF), held at Sentra Kelapa Gading, North Jakarta, in May invited both fashionistas and food lovers to get inspired by the latest fashion creations while enjoying an array of delectable food.

Dozens of Indonesian fashion designers took this chance to showcase their latest collections.

Among the women’s collections, designers under D’Labels showcased their Spring/Summer 2011 menswear ready-to-wear collection.

D’Labels is a clothing line specializing in menswear and was initiated by 10 Bali-based designers in 2010, including Ali Charisma, Angelica Wu, Dwi Iskandar, Putu Aliki and Oka Diputra.

In November, Jakartans hosted the Jakarta Fashion Week 2012, which boasted some 50 shows displaying some 2,000 designs by 180 local and international designers and some 60 labels.

Seniors like Biyan, Obin, Sebastian Gunawan, Carmanita, Denny Wirawan, Ghea Panggabean and Jazz Pasay
shared stage with members of the young generation such as Auguste Soesastro, Tex Saverio, Kleting Wigati, Danny Satriadi, Imelda Kartini and Michelle Worth.

Meantime, despite numerous fashion festivals, Sonny said, the event committees had yet to prepare for the existence of buyers and traders.

“So far, it’s mostly about the spirit to develop the Indonesian fashion industry, but not about trading. In the future, hopefully they will be more prepared in respect of the trading platform,” he said.

 This year also marked the launch of Indonesia Fashion Week (IFW). Next year the week is scheduled to be staged Feb. 23-26 with the theme “Colorful Indonesia.”

IFW’s committee has organized a series of events prior to the much-anticipated show. Designers have highlighted the sarong in a bid to bring it back and take it to the international stage.